Jeep Wrangler JL 3.6L MBRP Black Series Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review

Jeep Wrangler JL 3.6L MBRP Black Series Axle-Back Exhaust Sound Clip & Review

Hey, guys. Today, I’m here with the MBRP a Black Series
Axle-Back Exhaust System, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers with the 3.6 Liter
V6. So if you’re looking for an upgrade and performance,
sound, and style out of your exhaust system at a pretty affordable price, this option
by MBRP is gonna be a great choice to take a look at. So, starting off with that performance whenever
you’re opening up the airflow, whether that be intake or exhaust, you will see some small
performance gains in those higher RPM ranges. Now, as Jeep owners, we don’t spend a lot
of time there, so what you can expect out of this exhaust system is to feel a little
boost in throttle response when you are in those higher RPM ranges, like when you’re
getting on the highway or in your fuel economy. Now, where that increase in airflow and less
restriction is really gonna help you out is with the sound of this new exhaust system. So, I’m gonna give this a two out of five
on the loudness meter, with one being completely stuck in five being incredibly loud. Now, this black series is going to be on the
quieter side for MBRP. So, it’s not really going to increase in volume,
but it is going to deepen the tone of your exhaust system or your 3.6 liter, giving you
a more aggressive sound out of that 3.6. Now, as far as interior cabin noise goes you’re
not really gonna get a lot. You may hear it from time to time when you
get on the throttle, but it is going to be pretty quiet as far as being in the cab area
is concerned. Now, that’s gonna be perfect for the daily
driver who wants to hear their exhaust from time to time, but doesn’t wanna be bothered
on a daily basis with it. So, this is more or less going to be an entry-level
exhaust system, but it is gonna have a quality built at that made up of 409 stainless steel
material. Now, this is also gonna give you a lot of
style under the back end of your Wrangler with the dual outlet design, the large 4-inch
tip and that sleek black powder coat on top. Now, with all that being said, like I mentioned
before, this is going to be a more affordable choice at roughly $400. Now, in comparison to some other choices on
the page, the more expensive options are usually gonna be made of a higher quality stainless
steel, like a 304 that’s a little bit more rust-resistant, and they’re also usually going
to be a one-piece design. Now, on the other hand, the less expensive
choices are usually gonna be for those over axle designs. They’re just going to be the over axle pipe
and stay tucked high and tight up against the frame rail, perfect for somebody who’s
not worried about style and just wants something that stays out of the way. Now, if you wanna stay in the middle, you’re
looking for something that’s stylish, but you’re also looking for something that is
going to give you a good sound and stay on the affordable side, this option by MBRP is
going to be, again, a great choice to take a look at. So, install is actually gonna be pretty easy,
I’m gonna give it a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, you’re gonna need
very minimal tools and about two hours to get the job done. So, speaking of that install, let’s jump into
that now. The tools that I used for my install were
an impact wrench, a hanger removal tool, a 10-inch extension, a 3/8th-inch drive ratchet,
13-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 15-millimeter deep socket, a 13-millimeter swivel socket,
a 5/16th-inch Allen socket and a can of PB blaster. So, our first step is gonna be to loosen up
our clamp that’s holding on our axle-back. I’m gonna use a 15-millimeter deep socket
as well as a 10-inch extension to clear our track bar. Once our clamp’s loosened up, what we can
do is remove our hangers. So, our next step is gonna be to remove our
hangers. Now, I find it a little bit easier just to
remove the hangers from the frame instead of removing the exhaust from the isolators. There’s not a lot of room with our factory
exhaust, so if you are gonna remove the hangers, you will need a 13-millimeter swivel socket
as well as a 13-millimeter ratcheting wrench. So, I’m gonna take the 30-millimeter swivel
socket as well as that 10-inch extension that I just used, go over the sway bar, and we
can remove that top hole that’s holding on the hanger. So, first, we can remove the boat up at the
top and then we can move to the bolt on the side that’s holding the hanger onto the side
of the frame. For this, I’m gonna use a 13-millimeter ratcheting
wrench just, again, because there’s not a lot of room here. Now, when that bolt is removed, we can still,
kind of, hook the hanger onto the frame and remove the hanger from the other side. So, once everything is disconnected and unhooked
from the frame, we can wheel the axle-back off. Before we hop into the rest of the install,
I wanted to stop down and give you guys a comparison between our factory exhaust system
and what benefits that we’re gonna see out of this new MBRP axle-back system. So, starting off, you can tell that this is
gonna be a big upgrading construction and overall design in comparison to our factory
setup. So, when we’re taking a look at the factory
setup, we can tell that the muffler itself is just big and bulky and it’s not really
gonna help us out as far as departure angles or a lot of clearance when we’re out on the
trail. Now, with that being said, this is also going
to be very restrictive as an exhaust system. Perfect for this stock application, and keep
everything quiet, but when it comes to airflow, when it comes to sound, it’s really not helping
us out there. You can also tell the over axle pipe is very
pinched, which is also not gonna help us out with a lot of airflow either. The system itself is going to be made of a
steel material which doesn’t hold up for a long period of time, especially if you are
in the Rust Belt, but we’re moving over to a system like this. This MBRP exhaust system is gonna be made
of 409 stainless steel which will hold up for a longer period of time. This is also gonna have a heat-resistant,
black powder coat finish on top which is gonna help out with a very sleek look to the back
of your Wrangler, but it’s also gonna protect that 409 underneath. This system is also gonna be a lot less restrictive,
considering the smaller and more compact muffler which is going to have a lot better airflow. It’s gonna help you out with sound as well
because of less restriction. It’s also going to have 2-inch mandrel-bent
tubing which is not going to have any bending in the tubing which will help you out with
airflow as well. Now, this system is, overall, also just going
to look a lot better with the dual outlet in the large 4-inch tip on the back. Now, as you can tell this is going to be in
a couple of pieces, unlike our one-piece design factory system. So, we will have to put this together. So, let’s go ahead and do that now and then
we can round it up on our Jeep. Before we start assembling our new exhaust
system, we have to move our factory isolators and hangers over. So, I’m gonna take a hanger removal tool as
well as a little bit of PB blaster and remove both of our hangers here. So, now we can go ahead and assemble our exhaust
system. We’re gonna have two outlets on the driver’s
side and one outlet on the passenger side. Our piping that’s gonna have our tip on it,
or outlet piping, is going to go on the back outlet. Our over axle pipe is going to be attached
at the front outlet. And to make sure that both pipes are lining
up, this outlet is going to be on the back. So, at this point, what I’m gonna do is snug
up our clamps. I don’t wanna tighten them down all the way
because we still do have to adjust it when it’s on our Wrangler, but I want everything
to stay in place so we can mount it up as one piece. I’m gonna take a 15-millimeter deep socket
and just snug our clamps up. After these are snugged up, we can attach
our hangers. Then we can head over to the Jeep. So, what we’re gonna do is start by attaching
the over axle pipe and wiggling that into place. So, once that’s sitting in place, we can attach
two bolts to our hangers and then we can adjust our piping once everything’s attached. So, now we can go ahead and tighten up our
hangers. I’m gonna use that same 13-millimeter ratcheting
wrench, but I’m also gonna use a 13-millimeter socket for the top. You don’t necessarily need a swivel socket
for this point just because you have a decent amount of room here, same for the other side. Next, we can tighten down our over axle clamp. I’m using, again, that 15-millimeter socket. Then we can position our exhaust and move
to the rest of our clamps. Once our piping is positioned where we want
it to be, we’re gonna go ahead and tighten our two clamps on the driver’s side down with
the same 15-millimeter deep socket. Then we can move to our passenger side clamp
and then we can attach our tips. So, we can slide our tips over our outlet
piping, and you can position these wherever you’d like. Just gonna line it up with the back of our
bumper here, the same thing for the other side. Now, once both of those are even and straight,
we can take a 5/16th-inch Allen socket and tighten those both down. And then, after everything is tightened down,
then you’re all set to go. So, that’s gonna wrap it up for my review
and install. Make sure you like and subscribe. And for more videos and products like this,
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